五千年(敝帚自珍)

主题:【原创】男士服饰品牌乱煮 -- 煮酒正熟

共:💬278 🌺822 新:
分页树展主题 · 全看
/ 19
下页 末页
  • 家园 【原创】男士服饰品牌乱煮

    美国这里,每年从感恩节开始一直到新年以后,都有 holiday sales. 今年美国经济疲弱凋敝,时装零售业 (fashion retail business) 的日子更难过,所以今年服饰品牌打折比往年更深一点儿,目的应该是希望短期现金流不致太难看,多挺一会儿是一会儿。对暂时还没被擂的兄弟们来说,俺们虽然穷但也可以穷欢乐,该出手时就出手,应该趁机浑水摸她一把。所以俺厚着老脸写这贴,乱煮一哈俺对美国男士品牌的一点感性认识,以及消费方面的一点经验教训。

    美国男士品牌粗略可以分成综合型与专长型两大类,但专长型普遍都在向综合型演变,所以下面乱煮的时候就不刻意区分啦。

    美国的高档男士品牌大致包括:Brooks Brother, Alden, Allen Edmonds(只做皮鞋皮具)等。

    中高档里面有 Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Banana Republic, Johnston & Murphy, Cole Haan 等。J Crew 勉强也算。

    中档大致有 Nautica, Tommy Hilfigar 等等;皮鞋有 Bostonian 等。

    再往下就是平价大众商品了,就没有多少品牌内涵了。

    胡乱说说我对这几个品牌的看法。

    1. Brooks Brother

    点看全图

    外链图片需谨慎,可能会被源头改

    点看全图

    外链图片需谨慎,可能会被源头改

    很多大 Mall 里 和郊区的 outlet 里面都有他家专卖店。该品牌诞生于1818年,可谓历史悠久;其风格偏英伦,保守而略显刻板;货品极重用料和质感;价格不菲。整体感觉上,其目标消费群是富有的、不年轻的、稳重保守型的上中层人群,包括富有的退休者 (retired rich)。

    他家衬衫,主打都是免孕衬衫,就是穿了以后永远都不生小孩,哈哈哈... 其实说是免熨,实际上还是熨了更挺括,只不过熨的时候只要快速走一遍就可以,很省时间。衬衫一般单价都是60刀以上。如果您买他家衬衫,一定要注意一个问题:他家的尺码普遍偏大,他的 L 相当于其他家的 XL,而且虽然是全棉的 但因其特殊处理,洗后绝不缩水。他家的羊毛衫和裤子也都非常考究,穿起来给人感觉就是四个字 ---

    衣着光鲜。质感确实好,但有点做作,因为老得端着。看过希区科克的电影或者阿加莎-克丽丝蒂小说改编的电影吧?Brooks Brother 的东西,跟那里面那些英国富人的衣饰一个调调。他家皮鞋基本上都是进口意大利的,正装和 轻正装( business casual) 都是480刀以上。去球地吧,把俺卖了也不值这么多撒...

    2 Allen Edmonds 和 Alden

    这两家也都是美国老字号的皮鞋品牌,而且是最后两家在美国完成整套制作流程的厂商,在工艺上是美国最高的,应该比较接近靴子国意大利。但 Alden 的式样太过保守刻板,毫不性感。如果叫真起来,男鞋应该是式样和质感并重,光质感好工艺上乘,式样太古板也很难激起人们的购买欲。Allen Edmonds 在式样上更优,有几宽鞋很意大利,比如这双:点看全图

    外链图片需谨慎,可能会被源头改

    当然了,价格也不菲,这双要325刀。

    碰巧了也会有物美价廉的,比如这一款也很意大利,但折扣很深,最后价格是168刀。

    点看全图

    外链图片需谨慎,可能会被源头改

    3 Ralph Lauren / Polo

    点看全图

    外链图片需谨慎,可能会被源头改

    这个牌子90年代 -- 那时候还木出国 -- 就已经如驴贯耳了,因为秀水上一直污泱污泱地 (秀水是北京朝阳区一个以个体小贩为主体的的服装市场)。来米国后每次路过他家专卖都禁不住要进去看一哈,不过看到现在仍然木啥感觉。风格上他家属于老英国,文化上代表的是英国绅士的休闲生活。8过俺滴感觉奏是八个大字 --- 装模做样,志得意满。首先把那个小破标到处乱贴的做法就挺烦。他们老英好像都喜欢这么干,比如上面的 Brooks Brother 也是,只不过那个牌子不象这个 Polo 这么烂大街。其次是东西实在不咋地,而且越做越滥。主打衬衫的用料都很粗,式样也平庸,颜色也轻浮浅薄。当然优点是阳光、健康。去他家店,满眼都是米国上中产家里正上大学的半大孩子们,浅亮色体恤一买就是四五件... 他家东西俺除了刚来米国时在 Marschall's 买过两件体恤 (当时木钱),就再没碰过。

    其实公平来说,他家有些东西比如毛衣神马的也还行。但关键问题是他家那个破标贴得太显眼。什么东西一直白了就没劲了。更要命的是 他家经常把卖不掉的库存处理给平价商店,体恤十五刀一件就贱卖了(俺那两件奏这么买的),而且质感也很平庸。这牌子在消费者心里就跌价儿了。商标太直白 加上 牌子滥大街,这种玩意儿反正俺是敬而远之的。俺知道好多老中都喜欢这牌子,所以俺这贴写得也比较伤人。各位有砖请随便拍,俺绝不还嘴~~ 当然了,买来送国内亲友还是好的;另外他家毛衣也曾让俺很动心。

    (今天煮不熟了。明天继续炖)

    元宝推荐:老马丁, 通宝推:dahuang,

    本帖一共被 2 帖 引用 (帖内工具实现)
    • 家园 是经典还是精品,我可是不太懂哟!
    • 家园 我喜欢Zegna和Armani
    • 家园 不喜欢BROOKS BROTHER喜欢COLE HAAN

      Brooks Brother的衣服很刻板,女装也如此。档次也不能算高。折扣有时候比较大,偶买过2.5折的。

      Cole Haan的手感更好,款式也好。感觉和BROOKS BROTHER价格差别不多,不过我没买过正价品,都是在outlers买的。

      我也是一直不懂为啥POLO那么受欢迎,感觉性价比还不如Nautica和Tommy Hilfiger。要说阳光,还是Nautica的款式和颜色更加青春一些。

      偶喜欢Zegna的男装。你贴的第一双鞋很好看,喜欢!

      • 家园 我现在对brooks brothers

        也很失望。前后买过好几件他家的衬衫,最后退的退送人的送人,就没一件能穿的。西裤和崽裤有的样子颜色还不错,可都是给胖子们穿的,俺这个35X32死活没有。但08年底趁着他们打深折的时候淘了一个皮包,样式做工都很欧洲,原价300多刀、list price 248刀,最后110多刀就拿下了。

        他家的女装明显不如男装,男装都失望,女装就更表提了

        • 家园 35X32写错了吧?

          老酒莫非想说的是32x35?

          • 家园

            总记不住这个顺序。

            其实32X35 (waist X inseam) 也夸张了,前两天仔细量了量,发现inseam 34的就好(也许是俺抽抽儿了?)

            从小习惯于腰带勒得紧紧的,所以如果不考虑美观的话,俺确实喜欢穿32的。可腰带系太紧了,以现代人的审美来看,显得象个瘪三儿;西裤就更忌讳太紧,所以33对俺最合适

    • 家园 一点简洁直观的男士着装原则

      这是最近新发现的一个男服零售商,衬衫非常欧洲,领带和西裤也不错,价格方面也非常有竞争力。整体性价比完全不是Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Johnston and Murphy可以匹敌 (当然当然,这也跟俺本人对欧版衬衫和西裤情有独钟有关)

      www.paulfredrick.com

      下面是他家网站一些关于男士着装的建议。在河里存个底儿,免得他们更新了找不到。

      Business Dressing – Getting Started

      Whether you are new to the working world, changing jobs, facing a dress code policy change or you just feel the need to alter your professional look, putting together a traditional business wardrobe can be a daunting task. In our first few “Business Dressing” columns, we will help you select wardrobe options that will prove to be wise investments.

      Let’s begin with the most important (and expensive) element of your business wardrobe – the suit. Rather than start with a cutting edge look that may be obsolete next year, select 2-3 classically tailored suits in a year round fabric and conservative colors.

      Current trends favor a three-button jacket with double reverse pleated pants, but both two and three button models will provide you with a garment that can be worn for many years. Be sure to select trousers that are lined to the knee, since the lining will add both increased comfort and longevity (trousers always seem to wear out before suit jackets).

      Strong consideration should also be given to your selection of a tailor. It’s often wise to rely on the recommendations of friends and business associates. An adept tailor is invaluable. There’s nothing worse than putting on your newly altered suit for the first time, only to notice that the pants are too short or the jacket sleeves too long.

      Once you have the basics, you can slowly add other suits to round out your wardrobe. A light tan or beige color works well in warmer weather. Winter weight wool fabrics will keep you warmer during the winter. The best rule of thumb is to wear what is comfortable for you, always remembering that classic tailoring and colors will best stand the test of time.

      *****

      Getting Started - The Dress Shirt

      Dress shirts come in a multitude of styles, fabrics, patterns & colors. Your dress shirt choices should reflect both your personal style and the business environment in which you work. First, two general rules of thumb:

      Better dress shirts are invariably tailored of 100% cotton. They can be laundered and ironed at home, or professionally laundered at your local dry cleaner. If you are not handy with an iron and want to avoid the expense of professional laundering, non-iron or wrinkle-resistant shirts are now available in 100% cotton and serve as suitable alternatives. These shirts, in which the cotton fabric is treated to resist wrinkles, can be laundered at home and require a minimum of care.

      Unless you observe your supervisor and other managers wearing short sleeves, limit your dress shirt purchases to long sleeves only.

      Begin with about 6-8 dress shirts. If you work in a company where senior management dresses conservatively, or if your clients tend to dress in this manner, stick to simple dress shirts. Solid white, light blue or basic white and blue stripes are appropriate in almost any work environment. Traditional straight (point), spread or buttondown collars are always apropos. If you elect to make a distinctive and more elegant statement, select one or two dress shirts with a white collar and cuffs. French cuffs always dress up your shirt.

      If your work place allows you to go beyond the most basic of dress shirts, a wide variety of patterns and colors exist. Since dress shirts do not have the life expectancy of a business suit, you need not be as concerned with fashion obsolescence. Currently stripes, ginghams, glen plaids and tattersalls are popular, as are solid patterns in a wide variety of both subdued and vibrant colors. Choose patterns and colors in which you feel comfortable. The collar style should complement your build and the shape of your face.

      *****

      Beyond Basics - Adding to Your business Wardrobe

      Several of our early columns addressed the issue of getting started in building a business wardrobe (click here to read these articles). We strongly recommended sticking with basic colors and styles to allow for the greatest amount of flexibility in matching wardrobe pieces. This week we will focus on expanding your business wardrobe beyond those basic items.

      Let's start with dress shirts. Once you have acquired the requisite 6-8 basic dress shirts (white, blue, ecru or blue stripe), you can start to add to your collection by branching out into various patterns. Pinstripe, bengal stripe, end-on-end and minicheck are timeless and will out last seasonal, more fashion forward pattern selections. Choose traditional blue or burgundy for a classic look; tone of black, brown, purple or gold for a more updated feel. The more adventurous can opt for more fashion forward patterns including subtle tonal checks or multi-colored non-repeating stripes in a wide spectrum of colors.

      When you venture beyond basic dress shirts, it is wise to purchase shirts and neckties at the same time, to assure that these critical wardrobe items match. The key to matching a tie to a patterned dress shirt is to mix small patterns with larger patterns. For example, combine a minicheck dress shirt with a paisley or bold stripe necktie. Or, match a bengal stripe shirt with a mini-dot tie. To assure a strong color effect, select neckwear that features a tone that matches the secondary tone of the dress shirt.

      As with dress shirts, we recommend that you first build an assortment of basic woolen trousers in neutral tones (grey, charcoal, black, olive, tan, navy and brown) to provide the greatest amount of wardrobe versatility. Once you have accomplished this, branch out into some patterned trousers. Houndstooth and glen plaid are excellent choices, and they mix especially well with solid color blazers and fine gauge knits. A solid blazer and/or classic sportcoat are essential wardrobe items. Add additional sportcoats in versatile colors and patterns such as plaid, herringbone or houndstooth to supplement your wardrobe.

      Expanding your accessories collection can also add some zest to your wardrobe. Add some whimsical neckties and cufflinks. Once you have mastered the basics, have some fun while expanding your wardrobe.

      • 家园 好象只有网上订购,没有store location 啊

        里面的sportcoats, sport shirt看起来都很有designer的感觉,但不上身试试总不太敢买。老酒是怎样挑选的呢?

        我这一年来最喜欢的是Club Monaco的衣服。他家的衣服以黑白两色为主,设计显得很sharp,马鹿MM曾经把其风格总结为urban and chic。

        • 家园 83 83

          当然要上身试试。先买了,如果试过觉得不好,可以再退嘛。他家应该是退你购物邮资并且包你退货邮资的。美国大多数cataloger都是酱紫。

          当然,要学得心狠一点儿,表因为退货而感到内疚。俺退过cole haan, brooks brothers, johnston and murphy, calvin klein很多网购货品

          俺其实也是才发现这个,而且主要是要买办公室里穿的(新换的这个银行,美白男的着装都跟佛尔摩斯似的一丝不苟,很烦很烦)。看到这个网站,很是惊喜,然后就沉下心来读了读专家点评,普遍评价很高,所以前天才试着订了这个衬衫和领带:

          外链出处

          大图:

          [IMGA]点看全图

          外链图片需谨慎,可能会被源头改
          [/IMGA]

          83喜欢的这个Club Monaco刚才去仔细看了,俺也很喜欢。他家东东确实非常富于设计感,有质感,不同凡俗。颜色也恰恰对我的口味:俺喜欢蓝色、灰色、蓝灰色、灰蓝色、黑色、off-white。可惜他家在俺这个州没有店,他又不是那种传统网络零售类型的。他家价格贵到什么程度?

          • 83 83
            家园 惭愧,我还没在网上订购过衣服,

            听老酒这么一说,少不得要尝试一下了,只怕以后养成习惯,又是一个不小的开销。

            Club Monaco 本来是加拿大的品牌,后来被Ralph Lauren 收购,但RL一直对此低调,以保持其品牌形象的独立,因为CM的市场划分较RL为窄。CM新款的价格比同档次的Polo略高,但折扣特别狠,比如衬衣经常从89减到29,他家的sports coat屡次被我以99拿下(原价249)。

            他家的衣服很大的一个特点是修身,把人显瘦,但同时也显得有点过于casual,一般只适合周五的happy hour和参加party.

            • 家园

              他家网站上明晃晃地写着什么improve your weekend wardrobe还是什么的

              这种中高端定位、又时不时有深折的商家俺最喜欢,因为有机会淘东西,这个就全凭个人眼光啦(当然俺地眼光尚有待提高)

              网上购物有利有弊,弊当然无法当场试过,利是,大部分品牌,网上货色比之brick and mortar stores的,既好又全(样式好且多、尺码也全),价格也好。俺几次在网上购物然后去店里退货,都有店员由衷地赞叹网上的东西比自己店里的好。一旦习惯网上购物了,确实会上瘾

              • 家园 听您两位煮了半天,去看了一下

                Paul Fredrick都是白蓝灰,浅灰,浅蓝和深蓝深黑里打转。俺喜欢穿的暗红没有啊!

                Club Monaco,说来惭愧,还没弄清怎么看货,好像都是图片、帅哥和美女来着,price tag这重要的东西没看见。

    • 家园 天涯上看到一位达人说西装的帖子,分享给大家

      外链出处

      写这帖子的老兄似乎很专业,兄弟们都来看看,参考下

      里面总结几个看西装做工好坏的诀窍,真的很有用

      世界西装等级排名:

       

       

        特级:

        英国的Anderson-Sheppard,H-Huntsman等10到15家作坊,经营成衣、全定制、半定制,无论从历史、裁剪还是工艺、声誉都是世界最顶级的。

        

        准特级:

        英国Savile Row的其他作坊,技术工艺和特级的10几家差不多,多是由特级大店出来的裁缝开的,但是没有了历史积淀和种种噱头,名声没那么响亮。意大利的Kiton(国内仅成都有专柜)、Brioni(香港有专柜),美国的Oxxford(国内没有)。他们工艺都学自英国,但手工含量略低,约90%到95%为手工完成,没有全定制,以成衣为主加以少量的半定制。

        

        一级:

        英国非Savile Row出身的定制裁缝。

        意大利的Rubinacci、Caraceni、Attolini、Borrelli等品牌,以成衣为主,版有意大利特色但中国人不习惯不容易接受。在国内知名度极低,有一定手工含量。

        

        以上可算广义的世界顶级男装。

        

        二级:

        以杰尼亚(Zegna)和卡纳利(Canali)为代表的意大利专业男装制造商。以成衣为主,手工含量低。版接近英国,符合中国人审美,在国内知名度很高。工艺和国产西装非常接近,多由中国工厂代工。

        

        三级:

        以阿玛尼为代表的所谓designer shop品牌,非专业男装品牌,男装业务多外包给其他厂商。

        

        四级:

        国内众多品牌,工艺接近,以后细谈。

分页树展主题 · 全看
/ 19
下页 末页


有趣有益,互惠互利;开阔视野,博采众长。
虚拟的网络,真实的人。天南地北客,相逢皆朋友

Copyright © cchere 西西河