主题：【原创】男士服饰品牌乱煮 -- 煮酒正熟
每次减价的时候我看见他家店外排队的人龙很长，进去看看我还真啥都看不上，价钱不上不下，要算是随便买一件嫌贵，当精品买还真不算精品，真搞不懂他那玩意怎么有那么多人买。
介绍个欧洲牌子Massimo Dutti，我买了不少他家衣服裤子，都是减价时买的。买原价的玩意现在对于我来说已经是一种不可思议的奢侈了。
写这帖子的老兄似乎很专业，兄弟们都来看看，参考下
里面总结几个看西装做工好坏的诀窍，真的很有用
世界西装等级排名：
特级：
英国的Anderson-Sheppard,H-Huntsman等10到15家作坊，经营成衣、全定制、半定制，无论从历史、裁剪还是工艺、声誉都是世界最顶级的。
准特级：
英国Savile Row的其他作坊，技术工艺和特级的10几家差不多，多是由特级大店出来的裁缝开的，但是没有了历史积淀和种种噱头，名声没那么响亮。意大利的Kiton(国内仅成都有专柜)、Brioni(香港有专柜)，美国的Oxxford（国内没有)。他们工艺都学自英国，但手工含量略低，约90%到95%为手工完成，没有全定制，以成衣为主加以少量的半定制。
一级：
英国非Savile Row出身的定制裁缝。
意大利的Rubinacci、Caraceni、Attolini、Borrelli等品牌，以成衣为主，版有意大利特色但中国人不习惯不容易接受。在国内知名度极低，有一定手工含量。
以上可算广义的世界顶级男装。
二级：
以杰尼亚（Zegna）和卡纳利（Canali）为代表的意大利专业男装制造商。以成衣为主，手工含量低。版接近英国，符合中国人审美，在国内知名度很高。工艺和国产西装非常接近，多由中国工厂代工。
三级：
以阿玛尼为代表的所谓designer shop品牌，非专业男装品牌，男装业务多外包给其他厂商。
四级：
国内众多品牌，工艺接近，以后细谈。
这是最近新发现的一个男服零售商，衬衫非常欧洲，领带和西裤也不错，价格方面也非常有竞争力。整体性价比完全不是Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Johnston and Murphy可以匹敌 (当然当然，这也跟俺本人对欧版衬衫和西裤情有独钟有关)
www.paulfredrick.com
下面是他家网站一些关于男士着装的建议。在河里存个底儿，免得他们更新了找不到。
Business Dressing – Getting Started
Whether you are new to the working world, changing jobs, facing a dress code policy change or you just feel the need to alter your professional look, putting together a traditional business wardrobe can be a daunting task. In our first few “Business Dressing” columns, we will help you select wardrobe options that will prove to be wise investments.
Let’s begin with the most important (and expensive) element of your business wardrobe – the suit. Rather than start with a cutting edge look that may be obsolete next year, select 2-3 classically tailored suits in a year round fabric and conservative colors.
Current trends favor a three-button jacket with double reverse pleated pants, but both two and three button models will provide you with a garment that can be worn for many years. Be sure to select trousers that are lined to the knee, since the lining will add both increased comfort and longevity (trousers always seem to wear out before suit jackets).
Strong consideration should also be given to your selection of a tailor. It’s often wise to rely on the recommendations of friends and business associates. An adept tailor is invaluable. There’s nothing worse than putting on your newly altered suit for the first time, only to notice that the pants are too short or the jacket sleeves too long.
Once you have the basics, you can slowly add other suits to round out your wardrobe. A light tan or beige color works well in warmer weather. Winter weight wool fabrics will keep you warmer during the winter. The best rule of thumb is to wear what is comfortable for you, always remembering that classic tailoring and colors will best stand the test of time.
*****
Getting Started - The Dress Shirt
Dress shirts come in a multitude of styles, fabrics, patterns & colors. Your dress shirt choices should reflect both your personal style and the business environment in which you work. First, two general rules of thumb:
Better dress shirts are invariably tailored of 100% cotton. They can be laundered and ironed at home, or professionally laundered at your local dry cleaner. If you are not handy with an iron and want to avoid the expense of professional laundering, non-iron or wrinkle-resistant shirts are now available in 100% cotton and serve as suitable alternatives. These shirts, in which the cotton fabric is treated to resist wrinkles, can be laundered at home and require a minimum of care.
Unless you observe your supervisor and other managers wearing short sleeves, limit your dress shirt purchases to long sleeves only.
Begin with about 6-8 dress shirts. If you work in a company where senior management dresses conservatively, or if your clients tend to dress in this manner, stick to simple dress shirts. Solid white, light blue or basic white and blue stripes are appropriate in almost any work environment. Traditional straight (point), spread or buttondown collars are always apropos. If you elect to make a distinctive and more elegant statement, select one or two dress shirts with a white collar and cuffs. French cuffs always dress up your shirt.
If your work place allows you to go beyond the most basic of dress shirts, a wide variety of patterns and colors exist. Since dress shirts do not have the life expectancy of a business suit, you need not be as concerned with fashion obsolescence. Currently stripes, ginghams, glen plaids and tattersalls are popular, as are solid patterns in a wide variety of both subdued and vibrant colors. Choose patterns and colors in which you feel comfortable. The collar style should complement your build and the shape of your face.
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Beyond Basics - Adding to Your business Wardrobe
Several of our early columns addressed the issue of getting started in building a business wardrobe (click here to read these articles). We strongly recommended sticking with basic colors and styles to allow for the greatest amount of flexibility in matching wardrobe pieces. This week we will focus on expanding your business wardrobe beyond those basic items.
Let's start with dress shirts. Once you have acquired the requisite 6-8 basic dress shirts (white, blue, ecru or blue stripe), you can start to add to your collection by branching out into various patterns. Pinstripe, bengal stripe, end-on-end and minicheck are timeless and will out last seasonal, more fashion forward pattern selections. Choose traditional blue or burgundy for a classic look; tone of black, brown, purple or gold for a more updated feel. The more adventurous can opt for more fashion forward patterns including subtle tonal checks or multi-colored non-repeating stripes in a wide spectrum of colors.
When you venture beyond basic dress shirts, it is wise to purchase shirts and neckties at the same time, to assure that these critical wardrobe items match. The key to matching a tie to a patterned dress shirt is to mix small patterns with larger patterns. For example, combine a minicheck dress shirt with a paisley or bold stripe necktie. Or, match a bengal stripe shirt with a mini-dot tie. To assure a strong color effect, select neckwear that features a tone that matches the secondary tone of the dress shirt.
As with dress shirts, we recommend that you first build an assortment of basic woolen trousers in neutral tones (grey, charcoal, black, olive, tan, navy and brown) to provide the greatest amount of wardrobe versatility. Once you have accomplished this, branch out into some patterned trousers. Houndstooth and glen plaid are excellent choices, and they mix especially well with solid color blazers and fine gauge knits. A solid blazer and/or classic sportcoat are essential wardrobe items. Add additional sportcoats in versatile colors and patterns such as plaid, herringbone or houndstooth to supplement your wardrobe.
Expanding your accessories collection can also add some zest to your wardrobe. Add some whimsical neckties and cufflinks. Once you have mastered the basics, have some fun while expanding your wardrobe.
电话地址～
但是，每年多四五百，那是完完全全不够滴
只要你够牛逼，随随便便穿个什么人家都觉得你牛逼，也是俺们努力想追求的境界
问题是俺们现在还不够牛逼，而且众人又喜欢以衣着作为一种参考你看你牛不牛逼，所以没办法啊，都是逼的
里面的sportcoats, sport shirt看起来都很有designer的感觉，但不上身试试总不太敢买。老酒是怎样挑选的呢？
我这一年来最喜欢的是Club Monaco的衣服。他家的衣服以黑白两色为主，设计显得很sharp，马鹿MM曾经把其风格总结为urban and chic。
Brooks Brother的衣服很刻板，女装也如此。档次也不能算高。折扣有时候比较大，偶买过2.5折的。
Cole Haan的手感更好，款式也好。感觉和BROOKS BROTHER价格差别不多，不过我没买过正价品，都是在outlers买的。
我也是一直不懂为啥POLO那么受欢迎，感觉性价比还不如Nautica和Tommy Hilfiger。要说阳光，还是Nautica的款式和颜色更加青春一些。
偶喜欢Zegna的男装。你贴的第一双鞋很好看，喜欢！
当然要上身试试。先买了，如果试过觉得不好，可以再退嘛。他家应该是退你购物邮资并且包你退货邮资的。美国大多数cataloger都是酱紫。
当然，要学得心狠一点儿，表因为退货而感到内疚。俺退过cole haan, brooks brothers, johnston and murphy, calvin klein很多网购货品
俺其实也是才发现这个，而且主要是要买办公室里穿的(新换的这个银行，美白男的着装都跟佛尔摩斯似的一丝不苟，很烦很烦)。看到这个网站，很是惊喜，然后就沉下心来读了读专家点评，普遍评价很高，所以前天才试着订了这个衬衫和领带：
大图：
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83喜欢的这个Club Monaco刚才去仔细看了，俺也很喜欢。他家东东确实非常富于设计感，有质感，不同凡俗。颜色也恰恰对我的口味：俺喜欢蓝色、灰色、蓝灰色、灰蓝色、黑色、off-white。可惜他家在俺这个州没有店，他又不是那种传统网络零售类型的。他家价格贵到什么程度？
也很失望。前后买过好几件他家的衬衫，最后退的退送人的送人，就没一件能穿的。西裤和崽裤有的样子颜色还不错，可都是给胖子们穿的，俺这个35X32死活没有。但08年底趁着他们打深折的时候淘了一个皮包，样式做工都很欧洲，原价300多刀、list price 248刀，最后110多刀就拿下了。
他家的女装明显不如男装，男装都失望，女装就更表提了